Kyoto – Noh Theater, Confectionery Museum, Imperial Gardens, Golden Pavilion and Nishiki Market

Friday, October 13, 2017

We filled our taxis and headed for a small, family-run Noh Theater, where a mother and son, representatives of the proprietary family’s third and fourth generation, offered a lesson in a few of the essentials of the oldest (over 650 years) dramatic art form still practiced.  The original venues were outdoors, with a roofed main stage and a flanking stage, representing a bridge for traveling characters as they arrived and departed. 

Hidden beneath the main stage are large pottery vases that enable the sounds made by actors’ stamping feet to vary according to the desired dramatic effect. In Noh, each sound, gesture, step, piece of scenery, and prop is chosen or executed in order to have maximum impact and meaning with minimal movement.

Noh dramas, performed in ancient Japanese, are often based on traditional tales involving a supernatural being interacting with human characters; the pine trees depicted on the backdrop represent a passageway allowing deities and spirits of the dead to enter the action.

Masks are a vital element of Noh dramas and are highly respected objects, handed down for centuries and stored with great care.  A single mask, depending on the side the actor presents to the audience, or even the tilt of the actor’s head, can display varying emotions or demeanor.  (Side note: Horned masks always represent women, a custom that carries over into the traditional headdress worn by Japanese brides; the white fabric is meant to cover their horns!)

Music for Noh productions is provided by singers and by several instruments. A couple of members of our crew tried their hands at beating the hand drum, held in their left hands at their right shoulders while squeezing the drums’ cords and intoning just the right bellow.

Then it was on to the costumes, and three lucky women (including yours truly!) had the chance to try on a couple of silk kimonos (red for youth) and another lovely robe (pale purple signifying royalty).

A co-ed ensemble of then arrived onstage from afar (via “the bridge”) to learn how to walk the Noh way and not fall off the stage, despite the fact that they were not allowed to look down at their tabi (two-toed socks) clad feet.  The rest of us were happy to remain safely in our seats!

Our lessons complete, we watched a brief performance by the young man, who has been assisting in the family enterprise since age 3!  He has taken the family mission to preserve this ancient art form and keep it alive for new generations of Japanese and visitors to heart.  His mother does presentations similar to the one we experienced today to school groups and others over 200 times each year; this gracious woman has committed her life to fostering cultural communication beyond borders!

We made a brief stop at the Kyoto Confectionery Museum, located next door to the theater.  Confections are big in Kyoto and this museum, operated by a candy-making family, has a small gallery exhibiting sculpture and other works of art constructed out of sweet doughs.  An unusual concept, and no photos were allowed, so feel free to let your imaginations run wild, or have a look at http://sharing-kyoto.com/see_Kyogashi_Museum .  I’m not sure we would have stopped had it not been right next door to our primary destination this morning.

En route to lunch, we walked through the large Syokoku-ji Temple Complex, established in the late 14^th century and rebuilt in 1605 after a fire. It contains a number of sub-temples, a large temple bell which is symbolic of the relationship between China and Japan at the time of the temple’s foundation, and the largest temple meeting hall in Japan.

As we left the temple, we walked through an area with distinctly American-style brick buildings.  It is the campus of Doshisha University, founded by the first Japanese to graduate from an American University. In 1864, Joseph Hardy Neesima defied an overseas travel ban and traveled to Massachusetts, studied at Phillips Andover, graduated from Amherst  College, and was ordained after study at Andover Seminary.  Upon returning to Kyoto as Japan’s first ordained Protestant minister, he founded Doshisha University, which to this day maintains a relationship with Amherst College.  Four members of our group live in Amherst and as we passed by a building bearing a the name Amherst House, we all felt a special connection to a place half a world away.

We cut through the extensive Imperial Palace Gardens, now a public park, to a hotel with a restaurant overlooking a lovely strolling pond and water garden, where we had lunch and then struck off on our own for the afternoon.

We took a cab to the Kinkaku-ji Temple, better known as the Golden Pavilion.  This is the symbol of Kyoto, and even on this cloudy day punctuated with a few rain drops, it was mobbed with visitors.  The chance to see the gold-leaf clad temple on the shore of a quiet pond, surrounded by yet another wonderful garden, was worth being overtaken by the swarms of school groups that were also visiting this afternoon.  Though there was some jostling to get into position for the best photo ops, the presence of the school kids lead to one of the sweetest encounters of the trip.  A small group of students politely asked if they could practice their English with us.  (This is a common occurrence in Japan.) They introduced themselves and had a list of questions about where we were from, what we’ve seen in Kyoto, etc.  After our conversation, they asked if their teacher could take our photo with them and then they presented each of us with a handmade bookmark as a thank you.  It was a lovely moment, and reminded us of an encounter we had with a group of young students in rural Turkey.  (In that case, they and their teacher helped us find our way back to the road we’d wandered off!)

From the Golden Pavilion, we taxied to the closest subway station and took one of Kyoto’s two metro lines back to the center of town to visit the Nishiki Market, a long, covered stretch of shops and stalls selling everything from two-towed socks to sea urchins.  We had a matcha ice cream cone, which tasted pretty much what you’d expect powdered green tea ice cream to taste like; we didn’t ask for a second helping!!

Tonight, we had a farewell dinner at a local dinner.  We were seated at low tables on tatami mats and our feet were in a well below the table.  The courses kept coming and the wine kept flowing and everyone had their fill of both!  Spirits were high and it was a great finale to a memorable two weeks.  This trip was focused on Japan’s culture and Road Scholar provided an excellent program.  We toasted Chiaki, who has shepherded us from day one, warmly; she’s worked really hard to ensure we were where we were supposed to be when we were supposed to be there.  Our other guides, who joined us for specific parts of the trip, were excellent as well.

Late tomorrow morning, we leave for the drive to the airport in Osaka, a trip that should take between two and three hours.  Our flight out is late tomorrow afternoon and, even allowing for a three-hour layover in San  Francisco, we’re scheduled to be back home before we leave Japan; there’s nothing like crossing the International Dateline to mess with your head!

Thanks for reading, and we hope to see you next time.

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Random notes, gross generalizations, and stray observations made throughout the trip in no particular order, and with no attention paid to complete sentence structure or punctuation:

We were struck by the extensive system of raised-pattern sidewalk markings for the blind – parallel lines for straightaways, dots for intersecting paths and crosswalks.  In one ladies’ room, there were even raised dots to indicate where feet should be placed relative to the toilet.

There was lots of bowing -- by and to everyone along the way.

No street names in many cities.  Instead, locations are indicted in terms of the nearest intersection.

Hats and caps embroidered with English words -- often nonsense phrases.

Cloth panels hung at the entrances to shops and restaurants, indicating that the establishment is open for business, a remnant of the time they were used to keep the road dust out.

Frequent queries about where we were from as we encountered locals wherever we went.

In this non-religious country, there are Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples everywhere, sometimes on the same grounds, and there is much cross-pollination and coexistence between both systems in the lives of typical Japanese.

Architecture as an expression of status – a raised room indicated entry to the domain of someone of exalted status, likewise, a raised ceiling.  Stepping up into a building was a signal that shoes must be removed; in some places, slippers (provided) can be donned, but in others, e.g. where tatami mats cover the floors, not even slippers can be worn.   And then, there’s the whole matter of special slippers to be worn in the bathroom, and nowhere else…

In Japan, traditional construction relied on wood and paper, which were constantly endangered by fire.  Consequently, in an effort to invoke protection by higher powers, images of dragons breathe water instead of fire.

Vending machines everywhere, selling everything.

Matcha (green tea powder) is also ubiquitous – garishly green ice cream, cakes, candies and pastries.

Golf is big in Japan, with Top Golf-like driving ranges a common site, sometimes so close that one is in sight of another.

Taxi cabs are as clean as everything else in Kyoto.  Seats and headrests are protected with embroidered or lacy, sparkling white fitted covers.  White-gloved drivers are often in uniforms that have military overtones, with gold –accented epaulets on their jackets.  Taxis have automatic doors to open for boarding passengers and keep departing ones in the car until they’ve paid their fare!

The tidiness of Japan extends to its political advertising.  With a snap election approaching, we’ve noticed the appearance of white message boards of a standard size, segmented into six numbered rectangles of equal size. Originally, the boards were all blank; now, candidate posters (of a standard size – of course!) are beginning to neatly fill the spaces – in order!

Maps are not necessarily oriented with North at the top of the page.  Ergo, check the compass rose before checking the map!

Oh, and did we mention the toilets?!?

Kyoto – Shrines, Traditional Crafts and the Gion District

Thursday, October 12, 2017

After breakfast, we formed another taxi caravan headed to our first destination, the city-run Museum of Traditional Handicrafts.  This was a fantastic opportunity to learn about everything from the construction of folded fans, inlay, weaving, bamboo screens and woven baskets, books, masks, dolls, woodwork, and so much more.  The exhibits were extraordinary, and we could probably have spent an entire day there.

But, it was soon on to our next site, the nearby Heian Shrine, established in 1895 as a replica of the Heian Palace, which was built by the Emperor in the 8^th century.  The present structure dates from 1973, built to replace the original, which had been destroyed (like so much else in Japan), by fire.  While we’ve come to recognize the street-spanning Torii arch (the country’s second largest), the rice-fiber rope with hanging white “lightning bolts” (to encourage rain for the crop) decorating the entry gate, the purification fountain, wooden ema prayer plaques and paper fortunes tied to wires (and here, trees) as typical elements of Shinto shrines, the large courtyard between the gate and the main shrine is reminiscent of Chinese imperial palaces, which the Heian emperor’s original design emulated. 

From the shrine, we taxied to a restaurant where we again took over the entire space for lunch before walking to the nearby Ginkaku-ji Temple, known as the Silver Pavilion.  Dating from the 15^th century, the temple complex was built by a reluctant shogun, who preferred a life of art and culture to carrying out his civic and military responsibilities. (Think Nero fiddling away…)  He employed the most skilled artisans and craftsmen to construct this complex as his retirement home and it became the center of Kyoto’s Eastern Mountain Culture.  It is the birthplace of the Way of Tea in Japan and the tea house and Silver Pavilion are the only original structures in the complex; all the others were destroyed by fire.  Though the complex is a very popular destination for tourists and school groups, many of whom were present here this afternoon, the serene tranquility and beauty of the extensive gardens prevailed.

Our last taxi caravan of the day was to the Yasaka Shrine, which borders the Gion District.  The shrine dates from the 7^th century (preceding Kyoto’s founding and establishment as Japan’s second capital after the Emperor’s relocation from nearby Nara in 794) and its main shrine is dedicated to the appeasement of threatening evil spirits and the efforts to ultimately transform them into positive forces.  In addition to the bowing and clapping (twice to awaken the deities and get them to be attentive) we’ve seen at all Shinto shrines, the main shrine here (and several of the surrounding subsidiary shrines dedicated to other dieities) features large and long rope bell pulls used to summon the deities.  This shrine complex is a very popular destination for Japanese paying their traditional shrine visits at New Year’s.  More than 1,000,000 visit annually over the three-day holiday observance to ask blessings for the coming year!

From the shrine, we walked across a wide street and entered the narrow lanes of the Gion; many of the traditional, narrow wood houses have been repurposed as shops, restaurants and ochayas, the tea houses where geishas entertain.  Geishas (known locally as geikos) attain their status only after years of training.  As early as age six, girls can begin to live in the geikos’ communal home, under the supervision of the woman who acts as their “mother.”  Once a certain level of training has been achieved, the girl advances and becomes a maiko (apprentice geiko) and can wear the six-meter long obi appropriate to this station.  Eventually, having reached the required proficiency in music, dance and the art of tea, the dress, hair style and hair ornament of a geiko can be worn.  Though we saw many young girls in beautiful kimonos, we did not see any geikos as we wandered. 

Our group disbanded in the Gion District and we walked along the area’s main shopping street, stopping in several shops along the away.   We passed up the chance to rent kimonos (along with an appointment for appropriate hair and makeup), but did stop in a shop specializes in one of Kyoto’s characteristic foods – pickles.  Apparently, if it can be grown, it can be pickled, and we were able to sample many varieties of the city’s signature food.  We walked along the landscaped quay above the Kamo River back to the hotel in a very light mist. 

Tonight’s dinner in the hotel restaurant was a chance to meet some local residents.  Four people had been invited to dine with us and we had a lovely time chatting with them about anything and everything.  It was a lovely cultural exchange, and a nice facet of our Road Scholar program.

Kyoto – Temples, Tea and Textiles

Wednesday, October 11, 2017

We were out at 8:00 this morning to begin a very full day in Kyoto.  Our taxi caravan brought us first to the Daitoku-ji Temple, where we split into two groups of ten for the morning. 

Our contingent spent the first half of the morning at the temple complex, the largest Zen Buddhist monastery in Kyoto, despite the fact that it is currently about one-third the size of the original temple, founded in 1315 and favored by the Emperor.  After Kyoto burned in 1467, the complex was rebuilt support from the merchant class.  During the 16^th century, Japan’s most famous Tea Master was also a monk, a fact that established the relationship between the Japanese Tea Ceremony, with its emphasis on simplicity, and Zen Buddhism. 

The Daitoku-ji complex consists of many temples, most of them still active.  Though Japan is not religious, each person registers at the local temple, which serves a quasi-civic vital records function, documenting births and deaths. 

We toured a couple of temples, each with their own Zen gardens.  The Daisen Temple has been designated a Japanese National Treasure and dates from 1509.  The original structure has never burned or been destroyed and contains the oldest tokonoma in Japan. These alcoves appear in all reception rooms and display scrolls, art objects and/or seasonal flowers; they are an essential element of traditional Japanese interior design. Our guide also explained the meaning of scrolls displaying calligraphy representing a number of Zen aphorisms or prayers, some composed by the former head priest, a jovial fellow, whom we later saw as we exited the gift shop. The temple had a series of very lovely Zen gardens; unfortunately, no photography was allowed of them, or of the interior of the building.  The gardens of the Ryogen-in Temple were camera friendly, as were the rooms of the temple. 

There were many other photo opportunities as we strolled through the temple grounds.  Statues of red- or white - aproned jizo Bodisattava, the deities who protect children who die before their parents until they can accrue enough virtue to cross the river into the next life were striking.  The trees, stones, gates, and temple buildings presented a set piece; this is the Kyoto of postcards and travel brochures, seemingly a world removed from the modern urban core that surrounds it.

Leaving the temple complex, we walked about 15 minutes (under the hot sun) to the home of our Tea Master for a Japanese Tea Ceremony and a lesson in its intricacies. From the size of the room (a small, three-tatami mat room with a two-level ceiling for a couple of guests) to the “standard” four and a half mat room for five guests, everything about the ceremony is prescribed; though there were ten of us, we were able to fit comfortably in the standard room.  The alcove housed informal seasonal flowers in a natural arrangement and a scroll whose meaning was specially chosen to set the theme for the ceremony, but was open to interpretation and discussion. 

Because it is October, a brazier is used to heat the iron tea pot; next month, an open fire will be used.  The type and position of the heat source are determined by the time of year and the effort to keep guests comfortable.  The seating of guests and tea master, as well as the placement of implements for the ceremony, are precisely calibrated using the rows on the tatami mats.

Though our experience lasted significantly less than the four hours (!) of a formal tea ceremony, the Tea Master (Michael, from Switzerland!!) took great care with every gesture as he precisely folded a triangular cloth to stroke each utensil, opened the lacquer tea box, heated each tea bowl, used his hand-made small bamboo scoop to add matcha (green tea powder) to the bowl, ladled in just-hot-enough water, and whisked it with a specially-carved bamboo whisk.  As Michael finished preparing each bowl of tea, his student (and son, Lou) presented it to one of the guests, ready to be sipped while the process was repeated for each of the others.  While Michael performed each ritual, there was silence and rapt attention as we watched the precision of each movement; at other times, there were many questions from our group.  After we’d all finished our tea, Michael left the room so that we could examine the tea box and scoop and comment upon them without fear of giving offense – part of the ritual. Upon his return, the ceremony concluded and we unfolded ourselves from our seated positions on the mats, thanked Michael and his son for a wonderful experience, and headed for lunch.

At a restaurant across from the temple complex, we re-united with the rest of our group and had a vegetarian meal of shojin, or “temple food.”  Since the 16^th century, food has been prepared on this site, to serve the monks at the temple.  The shojin, vegetarian food of five different flavors (hot, sweet, salty sour, salty and bitter), was served in lacquerware boxes at individual low tables facing a lovely garden.  It was a cool respite after a hot and busy morning.

We taxied to this afternoon’s destination, the Shibori Museum, which is dedicated to Japanese textiles and particularly to the Kyoto craft of fabric dying.  A video explained the almost incredibly intricate work of marking, tying multiple tiny stitches around printed dots, dying, popping the dots, and many other techniques employed in making fabric for kimonos, scarves, shawls, ties, umbrellas, clothing and so much more.  We were awed by what we viewed, the samples we could touch, and the displays, including kimonos that take two years to make, in the small museum.  We had a great fun and lots of laughs in a workshop where we learned itajame (folding clamping, and dying fabric), for silk scarves and were pretty wowed by our finished products.  This was an unexpectedly light-hearted way to end this busy day’s program.

After walking back to the hotel, we enjoyed our happy hour, and after writing most of this (very lengthy) blog post, headed out for dinner.  By the time the elevator reached the lobby, we decided that we really didn’t want to sit upright much longer, so Tom went out to pick up something we could eat comfortably in our room and call it an early day.