Kyoto – Shrines, Traditional Crafts and the Gion District

Thursday, October 12, 2017

After breakfast, we formed another taxi caravan headed to our first destination, the city-run Museum of Traditional Handicrafts.  This was a fantastic opportunity to learn about everything from the construction of folded fans, inlay, weaving, bamboo screens and woven baskets, books, masks, dolls, woodwork, and so much more.  The exhibits were extraordinary, and we could probably have spent an entire day there.

But, it was soon on to our next site, the nearby Heian Shrine, established in 1895 as a replica of the Heian Palace, which was built by the Emperor in the 8^th century.  The present structure dates from 1973, built to replace the original, which had been destroyed (like so much else in Japan), by fire.  While we’ve come to recognize the street-spanning Torii arch (the country’s second largest), the rice-fiber rope with hanging white “lightning bolts” (to encourage rain for the crop) decorating the entry gate, the purification fountain, wooden ema prayer plaques and paper fortunes tied to wires (and here, trees) as typical elements of Shinto shrines, the large courtyard between the gate and the main shrine is reminiscent of Chinese imperial palaces, which the Heian emperor’s original design emulated. 

From the shrine, we taxied to a restaurant where we again took over the entire space for lunch before walking to the nearby Ginkaku-ji Temple, known as the Silver Pavilion.  Dating from the 15^th century, the temple complex was built by a reluctant shogun, who preferred a life of art and culture to carrying out his civic and military responsibilities. (Think Nero fiddling away…)  He employed the most skilled artisans and craftsmen to construct this complex as his retirement home and it became the center of Kyoto’s Eastern Mountain Culture.  It is the birthplace of the Way of Tea in Japan and the tea house and Silver Pavilion are the only original structures in the complex; all the others were destroyed by fire.  Though the complex is a very popular destination for tourists and school groups, many of whom were present here this afternoon, the serene tranquility and beauty of the extensive gardens prevailed.

Our last taxi caravan of the day was to the Yasaka Shrine, which borders the Gion District.  The shrine dates from the 7^th century (preceding Kyoto’s founding and establishment as Japan’s second capital after the Emperor’s relocation from nearby Nara in 794) and its main shrine is dedicated to the appeasement of threatening evil spirits and the efforts to ultimately transform them into positive forces.  In addition to the bowing and clapping (twice to awaken the deities and get them to be attentive) we’ve seen at all Shinto shrines, the main shrine here (and several of the surrounding subsidiary shrines dedicated to other dieities) features large and long rope bell pulls used to summon the deities.  This shrine complex is a very popular destination for Japanese paying their traditional shrine visits at New Year’s.  More than 1,000,000 visit annually over the three-day holiday observance to ask blessings for the coming year!

From the shrine, we walked across a wide street and entered the narrow lanes of the Gion; many of the traditional, narrow wood houses have been repurposed as shops, restaurants and ochayas, the tea houses where geishas entertain.  Geishas (known locally as geikos) attain their status only after years of training.  As early as age six, girls can begin to live in the geikos’ communal home, under the supervision of the woman who acts as their “mother.”  Once a certain level of training has been achieved, the girl advances and becomes a maiko (apprentice geiko) and can wear the six-meter long obi appropriate to this station.  Eventually, having reached the required proficiency in music, dance and the art of tea, the dress, hair style and hair ornament of a geiko can be worn.  Though we saw many young girls in beautiful kimonos, we did not see any geikos as we wandered. 

Our group disbanded in the Gion District and we walked along the area’s main shopping street, stopping in several shops along the away.   We passed up the chance to rent kimonos (along with an appointment for appropriate hair and makeup), but did stop in a shop specializes in one of Kyoto’s characteristic foods – pickles.  Apparently, if it can be grown, it can be pickled, and we were able to sample many varieties of the city’s signature food.  We walked along the landscaped quay above the Kamo River back to the hotel in a very light mist. 

Tonight’s dinner in the hotel restaurant was a chance to meet some local residents.  Four people had been invited to dine with us and we had a lovely time chatting with them about anything and everything.  It was a lovely cultural exchange, and a nice facet of our Road Scholar program.